12 thoughts on “Air Circulator Fan Motor

  1. Which (fan)Air Circulator brand is BETTER?
    Which (fan)Air Circulator brand is BETTER?
    I am thinking about buying an new Fan Air Circulator,I was thinking of choosing Vornado but my friend told me Honeywell is better.
    Which is better in your opinion.
    And where can I buy the low price?

    • The Vornado fan has always been a top-quality machine. They have good motors that can actually be lubricated when the need arises, and they are well-made quiet, and move a lot of air. The Honeywell product is a much cheaper fan and nowhere nearly as good, in terms of overall quality. I have a Vornado from the fifties and it’s still going strong.

    • If it is a frostless type (most are now) and the compressor is NOT running, the defrost timer could be stuck in the defrost mode. If the compressor IS running but no coldness, it could still be the defrost timer, but stuck in the refrigerate mode (but frost has collected until air can’t circulate through the heat exchanger any more because it is like a solid block of frost/ice). Usually the timer, which periodicaly sets it to defrost automatically, is right on the “ceiling” of the refrigerator in the same assembly where the temperature controls are, but sometimes it is under the bottom at the front, behind the removable panel. This timer usually has a thing that looks like a screw slot but made so you can only turn it one way. This will let you manually over-ride the motor to activate the switches. With the power ON and normal temperature settings, turn it slowly and see if you hear the compressor start up, is so, leave it a while and see if coldness is produced. If the compressor is already running but very limited coldness is being produced, open the freezer and check the vents where cold air is supposed to blow out of. See if any cold air is blowing out, also look into the vent slots with a flashlight and see if they are all plugged with frost. [Sometimes you have to remove the panels on the floor (or sometimes the back) of the freezer to see if they are plugged]. If no air or plugged with frost, it is either the circulator fan or the defrost not working. If you open it up and it looks like an iceberg, it is the defrost timer or some other part in the defrost circuit (heating element, thermal switch, etc). Sometimes, if it isn’t defrosting, it is faster to unplug, melt the ice out with a hair dryer, then fire it up again and see if coldness is being generated. Resist the temptation to start stabbing at it with a screwdriver, there are electrical connections and delicate parts embedded in the “iceberg”. If it turns out it is the defrost timer, use the manuel override to get into the refrigerate mode and it will run for a while (until it ices up again). You still need to get the replacement part though.

  2. Which fan is better those long horizontal fans or those circular ones?
    What is a good fan to use, the tower like horizontal fan or the one with the stand that has the circular fan thing on top. Idk what you call it

    • As with many other things, the best fan for you
      depends on your needs and wants.

      The best ones for really moving a lot of air were made by Patton,
      up to a few years ago.
      These have aluminium blades and seriously powerful motors.

      After Holmes Air bought Patton, the “good stuff” was discontinued,
      and no suitable substitute has been offered since then.

      A really good in-room air circulator is a Vornado ‘hassock fan’
      that blows air upward from the floor.
      These are supposed to be pretty quiet compared to most other types.
      I don’t know whether they are available new any more or not (I doubt it),
      and the few I’ve seen at estate sales have been in poor condition.
      If I ever find a nice one at an agreeable price, though,
      it will most certainly come home with me.

  3. Is the Hampton Bay High Velocity Air Circulator safe to use on its highest setting at a residential home?
    Like if it wont have the blade spinning off its fan, or the metal bars covering it wont be broken if the blade does fly off and stuff

    • Although something like that should never happen (Hampton Bay would be liable) I can tell you where something like that DID happen… from my own experiences!
      We have(had) a high velocity fan of our own at home (Patton, 20”, model U2-2002- link at bottom) that met an unfortunate end… The fan was sitting on the floor (the safest place) on high speed and it accidentally got knocked over.
      The blades, under influence of the gyroscopic effect*, dug into the metal bars of the cage, making large bends in the back of the grille and ripping two of the three blades clean off of the armature.(blade hub)
      However, the guard miraculously stayed on, while the motor, still spinning one blade, bounced the fan across the floor!

      All I’m saying is that you need to be careful around high velocity fans.
      They can be dangerous if mistreated but all you need to remember is that you should NEVER MOVE IT WHILE THE BLADES ARE SPINNING! (it warns against this in the owner’s manual)

      *a high mass object spinning on its axis will try to keep spinning in relation to the earth even if the axis is moved ( in other words, the blades tried to keep spinning perpendicular to the ground as the fan was falling. The large blades flexed under stress and as a result, the blades met the guard…

      link to U2-2002…
      http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?level=SK&id=124771&Nr=200000&N=200703&An=browse

  4. Problems with my Trane home furnace?
    Twice now i’ve woken up to no heat from my furnace. I’m smart enough to figure out which parts are failing but not smart enough to figure out what to do to get the to stop failing. So I get the the flashing lights on the control board that say thermal protection device open. I’ve replaced the high limit switch, and the roll out device. I can get parts uber cheap but would really like to know whats causing them to go bad.

    • INSUFFICIENT AIR PASSING OVER HEAT EXCHANGER! CHECK FOR PLUGGED FILTERS FAN BLOWER SPEED! retsricted ductwork,improper circulator motor,.

  5. why wont my air conditioner blower motor work?
    All was working fine then I noticed that although everyting outside of the house was working the blower [circulator ] inside wasn’t, In addition if I shut off the ac and just flick the fan switch it will not run!?!
    I checked with an ohrmeter and the the motor does seem to have a current runnig through, does anyone have some advice?
    The circulator fan was installed witha bryant furnace about 7 years ago. It is the same circulator for the furnace,

    • I’m a little confused about what exactly you did with your VOM. Did you check the cap? -how about the relay; did you do an open wire check?

      I’m going to say this about troubleshooting: with no power to the fan, isolate and ohm out the fan windings and the relay, and check capacitance on the capacitor. Check for positive connection from the thermostat. (red to green)

      This set of procedures will tell you what has failed.

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